I found a Khaen- now how do I play it?

I have learned to appreciate classical Thai music. When listening to classical Thai music I hear a sound that reminds me of bagpipes. For those who don't know, there was a time in my life that I played the Great Highland Pipes and was a member of the St. Andrews Bagpipe Troup in Kansas City. I also marched with the Shriner's Bagpipe band on St. Paddy's Day, a Pint of Ale for each mile was how that went. I could go a 6-pack's worth then had to stop. After 6 beers I could no longer pucker up to play.

Back to the Khaen, I did some research and discovered the instrument that made the Bagpipe sound is called a Khaen (CAN in English, ie. tinCAN). It is a free-reed instrument unlike the Bagpipe which is double-reed. The Khaen is native to Laos and N.E. Thailand.

In the picture, the Khaen is on the right. The little wind instrument on the left is like a Pan-Flute in a circle. I don't know what it is called in Thai, but it was only 200 THB ( $5 so why not buy it?).

My Thai came in handy when I decided to purchase the Khaen.

"Lot dai thaorai" How much can you discount? That little bit of Thai got me 10% off. Total cost 1300 THB for this hand-made instrument. ~ $37.00. They sell for triple in the US because they are so rare. The only book in print (English) on how to play the instrument is listed at $95.00 on some WWW sites. But a package deal, Khaen, case and book is listed round $130.00.

Of course I've read up on this instrument and its history is claimed by some to go back to the bronze age in S.E. Asia. If I learn to play it or not, I will enjoy having it in my home on display.

The store didn't have a bag so I carried it in full view, on the MRT (Subway) praying no one would ask this Frang to play.

If you want to hear what it sounds like check this out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiRs2zAV1ds

The singer is called a Morlam. The word is a combination of two words which mean Music and Song or Singer. Together the word is associated to the singer as an expert. The style of singing has a structure all its own which I don't know enough about at the moment to explain in any detail, but from what I've read it is Thai/Isan/Laotian RAP Music.

Hand movements are an important part of Thai/Lao dance - as you see in this video

The Khaen was initially a woman's instrument. But over time it evolved to being played mostly by men. In this clip you'll hear a female Morlam.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwXzPqWV4oM&feature=related

Another example of the Khane is in this video. A Fareng (foreigner) who is one of the best players. If you listen to this clip notice the similarity between Laotian rhythm and Irish/Scottish rhythm. Don't turn it off soon - he picks up the tempo. This is an example of a Khaen Solo. More often it is played in accompaniment to a Morlam and ensemble of other musicians.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vN93UdxyRFo&feature=related


Note to family: where are my bagpipes? Where are y'alls ear plugs?

Tall Buddha - Tall Tales

This is a funny but somewhat embarrassing story. I was duped here in Bangkok by a huckster - a "con man" I think would be another term for it.

But I'm one who enjoys a good joke even if I'm the butt of it so read on.

Wanting to show a friend from KC around Bangkok I suggested we visit the "Grand Palace". It is a remarkable place to see. And it is next to Wat Pra Khao - home of the Emerald Buddha, the most revered idol in Thailand. But there is one problem. Outside the walls there are the most horrific hucksters you can find. They are like gnats in your face with postcards, hand-painted silk wall hangings, key chains, pens that when you click them flash "Thailand" - it goes down hill from there. Trust you get the picture.

I've been here before I know the story - or so I thought. We arrived around 4PM. I'd been warned about hucksters who will try to tell you "Palace closed - we give tour to other places". But indeed the Grand Palace closes at 3:30PM and we missed our opportunity. Then someone dressed in what appeared to be "Grand Palace Uniform" approaches and suggest we take a tour of 4 other Wat (temples) around the area for only 40 THB - that's about $1.15. I'm thinking, I want to show my friend the city, something he will remember, we both talk and off we go in a Tuk-Tuk. Those of you who followed my 2008 blog have seen what this little vehicle is. It is a 3 wheeled open air fun-mobile. You get all the sights and smells of Bangkok, including the fumes from the exhaust.

First place we visit is the Wat Indrawiharn - the temple of the Standing Buddha (see pic). We look, I take some pics. I tried my best to get a sense of when my friend had seen all that he wanted to see. After a few moments looking up at the Standing Buddha I had the feeling my friend was ready to move on. So I suggest we go to the next Wat. Back we go to where our Tuk-Tuk driver said he would be waiting for us.

here he was. Sleeping. "We're back" I said. I figured in English or Thai he would know we were ready to move on. " "Ok sir, we go, but first let me wash my face." I'm thinking wash face? He then said "use restroom". Ok, that makes sense. "5 minutes sir." Ok 5 minutes wait. Why not do this while we were twisting our necks looking up at the Standing Buddha? I thought, OK, he was sleeping woke up and found he needed to use the restroom. Made sense.

So my friend and I sit in the Tuk-Tuk and wait. Suddenly the man sitting by the side on a bench say's hello in what sounded like really good English. To make a long story short, he said he was an orthopedic doctor who grew up in the south of Thailand near U-Tapao (famous US base during Vietnam War). He spoke of US soldiers coming to his parents home and that is how he learned "American English". He said he was waiting on his wife and family who were praying at the Wat before the Standing Buddha. Then he starting telling us about all the items we could purchase cheaply here in Bangkok. He showed us the rings he was wearing, the pants he had on etc. He named off a few shops that we should visit for guaranteed quality.

Our driver returned and we said our goodbye to the man. Of we go. And where too? Would you believe the Jewelery shop that the man told us to be sure to visit. I'm not sure if we caught on at this point - maybe coincidence. So we go in, look around leave and there was our Tuk-Tuk driver waiting for us. He then said you need to visit 5 min. Why? If you stay 5 min, I get Gasoline Ticket. If you stay only 2 min I don't. Suddenly we realized we'd been had.

Next stop a tailor shop. "Where are you from?" said the man who greeted us. I figured now that was the standard question so they know who on their staff to "take care of us". Had I said "Italy", I'm sure one of the other men standing around spoke Italian. It was intense pressure. I said "we are leaving in the morning" - that' was true for my friend. "Sir, we can have your suit ready for you and deliver to your hotel by midnight". Intense pressure. "Come, we show you catalogue" - this was an Arab tailor shop. I was already feeling nervous. I checked my watch. Had we been here 5 min? Yes - let's leave.

There was our Tuk-Tuk driver waiting. I said "5 min", he smiled and put his "free gas ticket" in the visor and off we go. Where too?

Another jewelry store. I told the man behind the counter "we are here to buy gas".

I was about ready to pay our driver 40 THB and get a cab, but it became funny to us and so we went along. Eventually my friend did purchase a bracelet for his wife - hope he tells her the story.

During our rides between the shops we realize the man who spoke good "American English" was also part of the scam. I intend to go back to Wat Indrawiharn - on my own - and take his picture and post here. Hopefully he will not remember me. I'll see if maybe the next time he says he was a former CIA agent for the US during the Vietnam conflict.

It was close to 6 PM by the time we saw our last Wat. I asked the driver what was the best way to get back to our our part of the city - we were now quite some distance from our hotel and the traffic in Bangkok is horrific. He suggested we take boat to connect to the Skytrain. Well, not having done that before and being in what seemed to be a rough part of town, my friend and I decided to take a cab and suffer how ever long it took to get home - at least we would be safe and in air conditioning.

My friend added "Phil, if we took the boat, I'm sure there would be a tailor on board who would promise to have the suit made by the time the boat reached the other dock." I busted out laughing and added "yea, and look at how rough the water is now. I'm sure one sleeve would be longer than the other."

When I think about it, this experience was perhaps more exciting for my friend than seeing the Grand Palace. And that was my intent - to provide a good 1st visit to Bangkok for my friend. Besides, he's coming back here next year and can visit it on his own - and be savvy to the scams. This experience was a hoot. We have some "one-liners" that I'm sure will bring back the moment and give us both a good laugh for a long time to come.

And what was our cost? Near to nothing - just time. And time to see parts of the city we both might never had experienced - in 5 minute increments.

Electric Monks

When I think of Buddhist Monks I think of those who choose to detach themselves from the world.

I don't expect to see Monks shopping in the most famous technology mall in S.E. Asia - PANTIP

5+ floors of almost everything you can imagine that runs on electricity.

Seeing these Monks with Cell Phones and computers is as disappointing to me as if I saw Mother Theresa smoking a Camel.

Erawan Shrine

Those who followed my 2008 Blog will remember this shrine and the details I provided about its history. Next to Wat Po (home of the Jade Buddha), this is perhaps the other most beloved shrine by the Thai people. Before the shrine was built construction on a hotel being erected at this very spot was plagued with difficulties. The local monks suggested erecting a shrine to San Phra Phrom (4 faced Brahma - a Hindu diety). Once the shrine was complete the construction problems stopped. This shrine seems out of place being located at the base of the Skytrain interchange, surrounded by 5-Star Hotels and posh shopping centers. But the Thais don't seem to notice. They are intent upon their devotion, giving thanks and making new requests at the Erawan Shrine.

This being the eve of Makah Bucha Day (Buddhist Lent), extra festivities took place at the shine. A Chinese troupe performed a Dragon dance with red and yellow dragons, and what I believe to be representation of the Chinese New Year (the man in the costume standing in front of the dragons). They made their way to each of the 4 faces of the statute and performed their dance accompanied by drums, gongs and bells.

Another extra at the shrine today was our department officer/director and my boss. He arrived from KC early this afternoon, having been delayed overnight in Tokyo. I was concerned that the delay would prevent us from taking a quick tour of the city before he leaves on Friday AM. But the delay gave him a nights sleep, so off we went on a brief tour. After seeing Erawan, it was of to JJ Market which as you know is a cacophony of sights, sounds and smells. I think he enjoyed, especially going back to Emporium for some "Fish and Chips". First "western meal" I've eaten in a month.